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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.